关于明朝锦衣卫服装服饰的读书笔记

2025-03-12 21:06:12
推荐回答(1个)
回答1:

 锦衣卫的高级人员有三种服饰:蟒服、飞鱼服、斗牛服.
  蟒袍是一种皇帝的赐服,穿蟒袍要戴玉带.蟒袍与皇帝所穿的龙衮服相似,本不在官服之列,而是明朝内使监宦官、宰辅蒙恩特赏的赐服.获得这类赐服被认为是极大的荣宠.明沈德符《万历野获编·补遗》卷二说:“蟒衣如像龙之服,与至尊所御袍相肖,但减一爪耳.”《元典章》卷五十八记大德元年(公元1297年),“不花帖木耳奏:'街市卖的缎子似皇上御穿的一般,用大龙,只少一个爪子.四个爪子的卖著(者)有奏(着)呵'.”说明四爪大龙缎袍(即蟒袍)在元初就已经在街市出卖.《明史·舆服志》记内使官服,说永乐以后(公元1403年以后)“宦官在帝左右必蟒服,……绣蟒于左右,系以鸾带.……次则飞鱼…….单蟒面皆斜向,坐蟒则正向,尤贵.又有膝襕者,亦如曳撒(据《碎金》称作曳撒),上有蟒补,当膝处横织细云蟒,盖南郊及山陵扈从,便于乘马也.或召对燕见,君臣皆不用袍而用此.第(但)蟒有五爪四爪之分,襕有红、黄之别耳.”这段记载可知,蟒衣有单蟒,即绣两条行蟒纹于衣襟左右.有坐蟒,即除左右襟两条行蟒外,在前胸后背加正面坐蟒纹,这是尊贵的式样.至于曳撒是一种袍裙式服装,于前胸后背饰蟒纹外,另在袍裙当膝处饰横条式云蟒纹装饰,称为膝襕.
  飞鱼,据《山海经》载:“其状如豚而赤文,服之不雷,可以御兵.”具有神话色彩.《林邑国记》说:“飞鱼身圆,长丈余,羽重沓,翼如胡蝉.”是一种龙头、有翼、鱼尾形的神话动物.
  飞鱼服是次于蟒袍的一种隆重服饰.至正德间,如武弁自参(将)游(击)以下,都得飞鱼服.嘉靖、隆庆间,这种服饰也颂及六部大臣及出镇视师大帅等,有赏赐而服者.
  官员要有一定品级才允许穿着飞鱼服.《明史·舆服志》:“嘉靖十六年,群臣朝于驻跸所,兵部尚书张瓒服蟒.帝怒曰:‘尚书二品,何自服蟒’.张瓒对曰:‘所服乃钦赐飞鱼服,鲜明类蟒,非蟒也’”.飞鱼类蟒,亦有二角.所谓飞鱼纹,是作蟒形而加鱼鳍鱼尾为稍异,非真作飞鱼形.飞鱼纹《山海经·海外西经》:“龙鱼陵居在其北,状如狸(或曰龙鱼似狸一角,狸作鲤).”因能飞,所以一名飞鱼,头如龙,鱼身一角,服式为衣分上下二截相连,下有分幅,二旁有襞积.
  明朝赐予一品官员的官服,上绣虬属兽斗牛,故名.清纳兰性德 《渌水亭杂识》卷二:“ 明朝翰林官,五品多借三品服色,讲官破格有赐斗牛服者.”参见《明史·舆服志三》.斗牛服与蟒服、飞鱼服,因服装的纹饰,都与皇帝所穿的龙衮服相似,本不在品官服制度之内,而是明朝内使监宦官、宰辅蒙恩特赏的赐服.获得这类赐服被认为是极大的荣宠.斗牛服是次于蟒服、飞鱼服的一种隆重服饰.
  斗牛原是天上星宿,《晋书·张华传》说,晋惠帝时,广武侯张华见斗牛之间常有紫气,请通晓天文的雷焕去询问,雷焕说是丰城宝剑之精,上彻于天,就让雷焕为丰城令.焕到任,掘狱屋基得一石函,中有双剑,刻题一曰龙泉,一曰太阿.乃一以送华,一以自佩.后张华被杀,剑忽不见.雷焕死后,其子持剑过延平津,船至江中,剑忽跃出,堕水.但见二龙蟠萦有文章,水泯警沸,于是失剑.明代斗牛服为牛角龙形.
  《天水冰山录》记载着从严嵩家抄没的财产名录,其中有五爪云龙过肩妆花段(缎),各种颜色质料的蟒龙纹衣料.如蟒龙补、过肩蟒龙.蟒、蟒补、过肩蟒、过肩云蟒、百花蟒;斗牛、斗牛补、斗牛过肩、斗牛过肩补;飞鱼、飞鱼补、飞鱼过肩、飞鱼通袖等各式衣、圆领、袍、袄、女衣、女袍、女袄、女披风等成衣和织成衣料,即按照成衣款式的结构裁片排料而织制的服装匹料.明代斗牛服在北京南苑苇子坑明墓、南京太平门外板仓村明墓、广州郊区明墓均有实物发现.

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